Tree Service Blog

Rose Diseases

In the upper Willamette Valley we have extended periods of moisture, including, rain, dews, fogs and high humidity which create ideal situations for the fungal diseases that plague Roses. We can minimize these conditions with a few simple rules. Always plant rose cultivars known to be resistant in your area. Remember, “resistant” does not mean completely un-affected. Always be meticulous about cleanliness around rose beds; keep old leaves and flowers cleaned up and off the property at all times. Plant roses so they are spaced to allow for good air circulation, and prune them for good air circulation. Always try to water the roots of the rose, avoiding the foliage. Water in the morning, so that any moisture on the leaves will be able to dry.

These are a few of the worst disease problems Roses have:

Black Spot: As the name implies, small black spots will appear on the upper surface of the leaves, causing the leaves to fall. Stems can be affected in cases of severe infection. This will weaken the plant. Black spot fungus overwinters on leaves and stems, and when the conditions are favorable; the disease will activate and re-infect new leaves in the spring. Black Spot is an annual problem and must be dealt with on a yearly basis.

Downy Mildew: While not as common, Downy Mildew is sometime confused with Black Spot. This is a serious disease, that can cause stunted, distorted growth and rapid defoliation. It favors cool, wet weather. You will find purple spots with yellow edges on the top of the leaves and along the stems, while pale gray “down” will be found on the underside of the leaves.

Powdery Mildew: This fungus looks like a white or light gray powder or mold on the tops of the leaves. If severe, the foliage can be stunted. Spores are wind blown from plant to plant, and does not require water to survive like many of the other rose fungus diseases, so it can develop under relatively dry conditions in spring and summer as long as there is any humidity. Plants in any shade, with poor air circulation seem to be more susceptible because that sort of environment increases disease advancement.

Rust: Rust is easy to diagnose. Small fuzzy, orange pustules form on the undersides of the leaves. This fungus can also cause defoliation and over winters on diseased leaves and infected stems. Rust is most common when nights are cool and humid. These spores are spread by wind and splashing water.

Mosaic Virus: This is a systemic virus, and as with all viruses, once it is in the plant there is nothing to be done to “cure” it. Symptoms include chlorotic or yellow bands, rings, wavy lines; giving a general mosaic pattern. Sometimes mottled flower color is also noted. This disease will not move to other plants, and is generally not much of a problem. If the plant is not performing up to acceptable levels, remove it and destroy all leaves and stems. Re-plant with a certified virus free rose.

True Care Inc. Tree Service has superb programs to combat Rose diseases. Give us a call for a free diagnoses and estimate for treatment.
503-678-5388

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Pruning Roses

Rose pruning is not as complicated as one might think. There are a few basic principles to keep in mind:

•With the exception of Rambler types, Rose pruning is best in the early spring, around Valentines Day, or President’s Day. In the fall, around Thanksgiving, it is a good idea to prune roses down enough that they will not get caught in a high wind and blown over.
•Remove any dead or obviously diseased or damaged wood.
•Remove any crossing branches, and those growing towards the inside of the plant.
•Remove all thin, frail canes that are too small to hold up a good bloom.
•Remove any suckers coming up from under the root graft.
•Use sharp, clean pruning tools. Nice sturdy gloves to thwart sharp thorns, is a good idea also.
•Always cut healthy stems at a 45 degree angle. Slant your cuts away from and approximately ¼ inch about an outward facing bud. This will direct the stem to grow towards the outside of the plant.
•Dead Heading is done through out the summer to extend flowering. Simply cut the stem, under the spent flower, back to an outward facing 5 leaflet leaf, at an angle. In the fall, allow the old roses to turn into hips, to begin dormancy.

Different varieties need some additional methods:

Hybrid Teas: Create a “V” shaped plant, with the middle of the plant open. This will increase light and air circulation. Cut the healthy stems you are going to keep to about 1/2 original length, leaving the stronger stems longer than the younger, thinner stems.

Floribunda and Grandiflora roses: These are not much different than Tea’s, except it is not as important to leave the center open. Prune the canes at different lengths to help insure continuous blooming.

Miniature Roses: Miniature roses require little pruning, other than pruning them to your preferred shape.

Rambler roses: Rambler’s are once blooming roses and should be pruned when they are finished blooming, rather than early spring. Ramblers grow a new set of canes that will bloom each year. The flowers are formed on year old canes, which should be cut back to within 2-3 inches of their base, preparing them to set new buds for the coming season.

Climbing Roses: Climbers are repeat bloomers and need to be pruned in the early spring. They do not do well with hard pruning like Tea’s do. Remove any dying or diseased canes, and reduce side shoots to around 6 inches to stimulate flower production.

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What Is a Certified Arborist?
Information from the I.S.A.: http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/Hire_Arborist.aspx
An arborist by definition is an individual who is trained in the art and science of planting, caring for, and maintaining individual trees. ISA arborist certification is a nongovernmental, voluntary process by which individuals can document their base of knowledge. It operates without mandate of law and is an internal, self-regulating device administered by the International Society of Arboriculture. Certification provides a measurable assessment of an individual’s knowledge and competence required to provide proper tree care.
Certification is not a measure of standards of practice. Certification can attest to the tree knowledge of an individual but cannot guarantee or ensure quality performance.
Certified Arborists are individuals who have achieved a level of knowledge in the art and science of tree care through experience and by passing a comprehensive examination developed by some of the nation’s leading experts on tree care. Certified Arborists must also continue their education to maintain their certification. Therefore, they are more likely to be up to date on the latest techniques in arboriculture.
Be an Informed Consumer
One of the best methods to use in choosing an arborist is to educate yourself on some of the basic principles of tree care. ISA offers several other brochures in this series, which discuss many of the basic principles of tree care. Your local garden center, extension agent, or city arborists are also excellent sources of information if you should have further questions. They may also be able to refer you to an ISA Certified Arborist in your area.

E-mail inquiries: isa@isa-arbor.com

(c) 1998, 2004 International Society of Arboriculture.
UPDATED JULY 2005

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Photinia Leaf spots
Entomosporium mespili

Entomosporium is a fungal disease that spots the leaves of plants in rose family, including apple, crab apple, hawthorn, pear, photinia, pyracantha, quince, and Rhaphiolepis. In the Willamette Valley, we see rampant problems on our Photinia. This disease is more than unsightly; heavy infections will cause defoliation, and death of the infected plant.

This fungus overwinters in infected leaves from the previous year. In the spring the fungul spores are released and are dispersed to healthy, young tissue. In the beginning, small reddish spots appear on the leaves of infected plants. These spots darken and enlarge as the leaves mature. The infection presents mostly on the leaf blades, and may be found on petioles and young shoots, in instances of severe infection.

Controls to decrease the severty of this disease:
1 Remove and destroy fallen leaves in the fall and winter.
2.Only take cuttings from healthy, uninfected plants.
3.Try to space plants far enough apart to provide good air circulation
4.Prune the bottom to provide good air circulation.
5.Prune in the late fall or early spring, and avoid frequent pruning.
6.Avoid summer fertilization, to make sure no new, early growth will appear and become infected.
7.Manage irrigation during dry times to avoid wetting the leaves.
8.Soft chemical control is needed in addition to the manual controls.

The technicians at True Care Inc. are very well versed in the care and treatment of Entomosporium on your valuable plants.. Give us a call today to have a free estimate on treating photinia, or any of the other plants this disease attacks.

503-678-5388

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Box Elder bugs
Boisea trivittatus

Boxelder bugs, Boisea trivittatus, is a well-known nuisance insects in the Pacific Northwest. We generally do not notice them in the summer months, as they live quietly in Box Elder or Maple trees. They only become an issue during the early spring or fall, when they can envelop buildings in swarms, and get inside homes and work places.
There are two kinds of Box Elder bugs in the U.S. The Eastern and Western, found west of Nevada. In the spring eggs are laid on Box Elder and Maple leaves, (Box Elder, being a type of maple tree). Box Elder bugs develop throughout the summer, living in the Box Elder or Maple trees. Box Elder bugs are brownish-black and about 1/2 inch long. They have three red lines going down their bodies. Young bugs resemble adults except they are redder and have no wings. The immature bugs feed mostly on Maple and Box Elder seeds, and the adults feed mostly on the leaves, flowers and seeds, causing no significant damage.
Box Elder bugs like to spend the winter in protected warm places. In the fall they will swarm to (generally) light colored, south or west facing walls of buildings and look for cracks and crevices in walls; window and door casings; in and around building foundations; and inside houses. They particularly like stone, masonry or other rough surfaces. They have been found sleeping in the crevices of rough bark trees, like Douglas fire, as well a rocky out crops. In the early spring, warm sun on their hiding places will wake the insects up, and they begin to crawl out and prepare for the coming season. As soon as Maple and Box Elder trees begin to put on their leaves, the Box Elder bugs will leave the warm places and retreat to the trees.
Box Elder bugs are harmless to property, and people, and even the trees they live in They do not feed on furniture, or wood siding or other plants around the house. They do not bite or sting people or animals. They can, however stain walls, or siding with their excrement.
Do what you can to prevent these nuisance pests from entering the inside of homes and offices. Repair or replace any damaged window or door screens. Seal areas around utility pipes or wires coming into the building. Make sure weather striping is in good shape around doors and windows. Move piles of wood or other tempting, warm hiding places that are too close to your home. If you are going to repaint your home soon, pick a darker color, and maybe plant a tree to shade the sunny area of your home. Treating for these pests on the outside of your home is virtually ineffective. Once inside, vacuuming the critters will help, but be sure to take the bag out side, as soon as you are finished.

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Systemic Injection Methods for Tree Insects and Disease

If your trees and shrubs become unpleasant and unhealthy, with falling leaves, or sticky dripping all over the ground below, they will loose some of their appeal.
Symptoms: Honeydew, a dilute solution of carbohydrates, amino acids, minerals, and other substances is that sticky liquid causing all the sticky mess under your plants. It is excreted by plant-sucking insects as they gulp down large quantities of sap. Because these insects cannot use all of this fluid, they digest what they need and excrete the rest as “honeydew.” The result is a sticky substance on lawn furniture, cars, sidewalks, and anything under or around these trees. Sooty mold is a by product of this substance, that grow on plant parts and other surfaces, affected by these secretions. Also, ants are attracted to the sweet, sticky secretions and use it as a source of food. With an ordered approach, they will effectively protect honeydew producing insects from predators and parasites in order to harvest this food source.
Leaves that fall early and often can also be a symptom of insect activity in your trees. Disease problems are more often than not, the root of this particular problem. Chlorosis, some of the Anthracnose diseases, and Dutch elm disease are some of the diseases that can be responsible.

Time is of the essence when you see problems in your trees. An arborist should examine the tree and prescribe a solution, preferably before the problem gets a start in the spring.

Solutions:
We are now offering the latest in technology breakthroughs for treatment of insect and disease problems in trees. These treatments will effectively and safely inoculate your trees against these sorts of pests. One application per season protects against destructive pests on ornamental trees for the entire season. These applications, applied directly into the trunk of the trees, and have the advantage of being absorbed by the tree quickly, are “rain proof” and can be applied where aerial “spray” treatments or soil treatments may not be practical or effective, including trees growing on excessively wet, compacted, or restricted soil environments. Fertilizers can also be applied with this method.
Trees are beneficial in our neighborhoods for more than just their beauty. They provide shade and further cool our air by the transpiration of water. They provide food and shelter for birds and other wild life, conceal unsightly views, provide privacy, and filter pollutants. It is important to keep these valuable additions to our environment healthy and productive.
Give True Care Inc. a call today, for a free estimate to control pests in your trees and shrubs.
503-678-5388.

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Apple Scab
Venturia inaequalis

Apple scab is a fungus that is of major economic importance all over the world. This disease will occur every year, as the fungal spores travel with wind and rain. It can reduce the size and quality of the fruit, and cause defoliation of the entire tree. Apple scab can attack Pears, Hawthorn, Mountain Ash, and Crabapples. A closely related fungus can also attack Pyracantha.

This fungus overwinters in diseased apple leaves and fruit on the ground. In late fall and spring, microscopic primary fungal spores, are produced from previous infections on the dead leaves and fruit fallen to the ground. When this debris becomes wet, the fungal spores are powerfully ejected into the air. Air currents carry them to the emerging leaves, flowers and fruit, where infection takes place. Some studies show that under the right conditions of wind and wet, spores can travel up to 45 miles. Secondary spores may spread the disease from established infections on trees, as the season moves on. All surfaces of unopened buds are highly susceptible to infection when exposed to these spores. Bud or blossom infection often leads to premature shedding of blossoms and/or to severe infection of developing fruit. Mature apples are much less susceptible to apple scab than immature fruit. However, infections can occur up to the harvest.

The first symptoms of apple scab are velvety dark spots on fruits and leaves. As the disease matures, fruit spots become “scab” like as they age. . Diseased leaves will be curled and distorted and many will drop early. As the fruit develops, the spots will enlarge and become brown or tan, with a “corky” texture that is often sunken in the fruit. These infected areas often crack, allowing fruit-rotting organisms into the fruit.

Our warm and wet springs have exactly the kind of conditions that Venturia inaequalis needs to thrive on. If the primary infections are effectively controlled, the secondary infections are not as acute. Preventing infection of leaves and flowers is one of the most important steps in successfully controlling scab. Routine preventative maintenance for homeowners include; raking and disposing of all leaves and fruit on the ground every fall and winter, pruning yearly to increase air circulation, and to make sure that irrigation in the dry months does not wet the leaves. Applying fungicides is a precise effort. The key is to apply fungicides at the appropriate windows of time, get full and complete coverage of the parts needing protection, and to select the accurate fungicides and to rotate those materials, to avoid disease resistance.

Our technicians at True Care Inc. are fully trained in applying fungicide treatments, and are up to date on all the most current and environmentally safe procedures and materials available on the market today.

Call True Care Inc. for a free estimate on managing Scab disease, today!
503-678-5388

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The secret life of soil
CORVALLIS, Ore.—Soil is alive. Much more than a prop to hold up your plants, healthy soil is a jungle of voracious creatures eating and pooping and reproducing their way toward glorious soil fertility.
A single teaspoon (1 gram) of rich garden soil can hold up to one billion bacteria, several yards of fungal filaments, several thousand protozoa, and scores of nematodes, according to Kathy Merrifield, nematologist at Oregon State University. Most of these creatures are exceedingly small; earthworms and millipedes are giants, in comparison. Each has a role in the secret life of soil.
Bacteria make up the largest group in the soil jungle, and they are as diverse as they are numerous. Some kinds of bacteria are responsible for converting atmospheric nitrogen to plant-available forms, a process known as nitrogen fixation. Actinomycetes, with cells like bacteria and filaments like fungi, are thought to contribute chemicals that give newly tilled soil its earthy aroma.
Mycorrhizae are fungi that form a relationship with plant roots and increase their ability to take up nutrients from the soil. These filaments, along with root hairs and other binding substances produced by bacteria and fungi, help hold soil particles together and keep soil from eroding.
Protozoa are single-celled, mostly motile organisms that feed on bacteria and other tiny organisms as well as each other. There may be thousands of them living in that teaspoon of soil. Protozoa release nitrogen, making it available to plants. As much as 80 percent of the nitrogen in plants can come from bacteria-eating protozoa.
Nematodes, simple roundworms, have evolved several feeding strategies. In temperate soils, some eat bacteria while others eat fungi or soil algae. Some nematodes attack plants, piercing plant cells and sucking out the contents. Some nematodes eat other nematodes or other small invertebrates.
Earthworms, giants of the soil jungle, mix and aggregate soil particles, creating deep channels that help aerate the soil and provide channels for growing roots. They shred and bury plant residue that stimulates microbial activity and increases the soil’s capacity to retain moisture. Earthworms consume tiny soil organisms and excrete even more microorganisms in their castings.
The base of the soil food web is organic matter, material derived from living stuff that provides a source of energy stored as fixed carbon. Nutrients are “served” along with fixed carbon as carbon is converted to energy. Chemical fertilizers supply specific nutrients directly to plants, but they do not replace the other kinds of food that bacteria and fungi need. Soils with more organic matter tend to have more life. Mulching with compost, cover cropping and no-till farming practices tend to increase organic matter and thus increase the number and diversity of microorganisms in soil.
“All these things that live in the soil may seem unimportant,” says Merrifield, “but they work together in a system that is truly the foundation of life.”
By: Peg Herring Source: Kathy Merrifield Oregon State University, Extension & Experiment Station Communications Oregon State University – All Rights Reserved.
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/story.php?S_No=1121

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“Shot Hole” Disease
Coryneum byerinkii or Wilsononyces carpophiluscan

Shot hole disease can be a problem in both flowering and fruiting trees in the home landscape. This disease thrives with our typical long periods of wet spring weather in the Pacific Northwest. Shot hole disease attacks ornamental and fruiting varieties of all stone fruit; almonds, apricots, nectarines, peach, plums, prunes and cherry trees.

While the “shot holes” are found in the spring and summer, the disease starts much earlier. It manifests at first on young leaves as small reddish spots or lesions, that enlarge, become darker, and then drop out of the leaf blade leaving a “shot hole” appearance. Numerous holes give a very tattered appearance to infected leaves. In fruiting trees, similar spots or lesions will appear later, on the epidermis of the fruit itself. These disfiguring lesions can appear, anywhere from 10 to 12 weeks prior to harvest, through the post harvest period.

We need to begin deterring this disease with fall and winter dormant treatments, because twig and bud infections can occur during rainy weather anytime between fall and late spring. The fungus can geminate and infect at temperatures as low as 36 degrees Fahrenheit. Spores are spread by water; splashing rain or irrigation systems, as well as wind currents. The spores infect the tree through twigs, buds, blossoms and young leaves, so the dormant treatments should be followed by later spring applications.

It is always a good idea to do your own cultural control around your garden, for all fungus diseases. For “shot Hole’, be sure all your dead diseased leaves and fallen fruit are kept cleaned up and off your landscape at all time. It is best to not compost these leaves and fruit, but to completely remove them from your property. During summer watering do not let sprinkler systems wet the foliage and fruit. Prune out infected twigs during your annual pruning, if possible.

Call True Care Inc. (503-678-5388) today, for a free estimate.

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Fruit Production

Regular insect and disease treatments generally have no affect on a tree’s ability to bear fruit, except to help increase the size and quality of each yield. The following are a few factors that can influence fruit production.

Chill Factor:
Most deciduous fruit trees need a minimum amount of “chill” in winter to grow and fruit well the following season. Chilling requirements on different varieties can vary considerably. When we have very warm winters, many of our fruit trees do not get enough “chill factor” to produce well. On the other hand, extreme and prolonged cold during winter and into early spring may kill fruit buds. Our winter and early spring temperatures rarely get and stay cold enough to completely damage fruit buds, on most trees.

Pollination:
Fruit may fail to develop or may drop prematurely if pollination is poor. Some fruit trees require a tree of a different variety for viable pollen. Cold temperatures or very wet, rainy weather during flowering may inhibit bee and insect pollination activity. Treating trees for fungus diseases during blossoming is imperative to break the cycle of fungal contamination. At True Care, we do not add insecticides to our fungicide treatments, during flowering unless there is an over-population of destructive insects that could otherwise damage a tree. We also are very careful to choose fungicides that are not harmful to Bee populations.

Biennial Bearing:
Occasionally, fruit trees bear heavily one year and sparsely the next. “Biennial bearing”, is caused because spring-flowering buds of hardy fruit trees are formed during the previous summer, and a especially heavy crop one year may prevent adequate bud formation for the following year. During years of heavy fruit set, this can sometimes be corrected, by thinning fruit to allow 6-8 inches between fruits, 30 days after bloom.

Pruning:
Proper pruning practices can also help your fruit trees to perform better. Excessive upright growth will delay fruit bearing and reduce the quantity of fruit produced. Fruit trees should be pruned with an open center, with well spaced branching patterns for stone fruits, and a strong fame work with a central leader and horizontal branches on Pom (Apple and Pear) fruits. Pruning should be done in December, January or February to insure a good fruit set for the next year.

Fertilizing:
Fertilizing should only be done periodically, and only with a low nitrogen rate, since over applications of nitrogen can cause abundant foliage growth at the expense of fruit production. Extra micro nutrients should be added to insure proper, all around good nutrition for your fruit trees.

Sun and Water:
Fruit trees require full sun for maximum production. Give new trees plenty of space so they do not have to compete with other trees for sun, nutrients and water. Too much or too little water can cause fruit to drop. Water trees infrequently but deeply during our long, hot summers. This means watering every two to four weeks. If possible, use a good organic mulch 2-3 inches deep, to help maintain even soil moisture

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