Tree Service Blog True Care Inc.

Winter Spruce Aphids: Active Now!

Spruce aphids and the damage they cause are often a surprise to gardeners looking over their trees in the spring and summer. The Spruce aphid is often called a “winter aphid”, as they begin hatching in October, and feed well into March. We often do not notice that damage until May or June when foliage begins to dry out and die, and there is a sooty mold over all the rest of the tree. If the damage continues over a few years, the tree may die. These winter aphids are found on Sitka spruce and most ornamental spruces grown in Oregon and Washington.

This aphid is very small. They measure a mere 1/16 of an inch long, found on the underside of older needles, but there can be high numbers of them, that can be detected by close observation December thru March. The nymph stage is when we find the highest populations. This aphid feeds much too early for insect and other predators to be able to reduce populations. Property owners often do not see the damage, until the Spruce aphid has finished its yearly feeding and gone dormant.

Bio-chemical, and soft chemical sprays can be successful in managing the Spruce aphid when they are present. Oil sprays are effective, but may turn your Blue spruce green. Many times when the new growth appears in the spring, the tree will turn blue again, but it doesn’t always come back to the same lush blue.

True Care is experienced in detecting these aphids. We use environmentally friendly products that can treat for winter aphids, with out hurting birds or pets.

Give us a call today to come and give a free diagnosis and estimate to take care of winter problems in your landscape.
503-678-5388

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I am re-posting this article from 2010, as this year we had an amazing amount of damage, especially from the Azalea Lace bug in our area. We need to be thinking about this pest for the up coming season…….

Lace Bug damage in the Pacific Northwest on Broad Leafed evergreens
(Stephanitis pyrioides or Stephanitus rhododendri)

The appearance of the “Azalea” lace bug, Stephanitis pyrioides was confirmed in Washington in 2008 and in Oregon in 2009. This lace bug is causing damage on other broad leafed evergreens, besides Azaleas in our area. The damage can be found on Rhododendrons, Mountain Laurel and Andromeda, also. The “Rhododendron” lace bug, Stephanitus rhododendri has been in the Pacific Northwest for awhile, and is found fairly often – but only on certain species or varieties of Rhododendrons.

In the fall adult lace bug embed their eggs in the underside of leaves, of broad leaved evergreens. The eggs over winter and will hatch anywhere from late April to late May. Both the adults and the young (nymphs) then feed on the underside of the leaf, by piercing the leaf and sucking fluid from the plant tissue. The life entire cycle, from egg to adult, may be completed in as little as thirty days. The Azalea lace bug can have up to 3 generations per year, where the Rhododendron lace bug generally only has one. In the Pacific Northwest, Lace bugs can be found in all stages of development on broad-leaved evergreens through August or September.

Symptoms appear as though the damage is drought related or as if there are nutritional deficiencies, with chlorosis or stippling visible on the upper surface of the leaf. Sometimes the damage is miss-diagnosed as mite damage. In severe infestations, the leaves become almost white, with severe leaf drop. The underside of the leaf will show the adults, their cast skins, nymphs and excrement, which is a shinny black substance.

Controls include a broad range of predators. Spiders, earwigs, lacewings, minute pirate bugs are all good predators for Lace bugs. Different planting sites can also make a difference in Lace bug populations. Azaleas, Rhodies, and Andromeda planted in the sun seem to have a higher percentage of Lace bug attacks, compared to those planted in the shade. Drought stress on plants also seems to encourage lace bug populations. Make sure your plants are well watered through our drought periods in the summer. Some Azaleas are being produced that show resistance to the Azalea lace bugs, so check before planting new plants. Many Encore Azalea cultivars have been found to be resistant including: Autumn Amethyst, Autumn Twist, Autumn Royalty, Autumn Sangria, Autumn Cheer, and Autumn Rouge. Cultivars showing moderate resistance are Autumn Embers, Autumn Bravo, Autumn Starlight, Autumn Ruby, and Autumn Princess.

Bio-rational chemical control is also proving to be sufficient in controlling Lace bugs, with applications at 2 or 3 times per year. At True Care Inc. our technicians are well versed in all stages of control for your garden needs. Give us a call today for a free diagnoses and a comprehensive plan to keep your plants healthy and productive through out the growing season.
503-678-5388

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As winter creeps up on us in the Pacific NW, it is always a good idea to look at our landscapes for any stituations that could cause harm to property. The following are a few things to watch for in your trees and shrubs.

Decay: Any sort of a mushroom (conk) growing on a tree trunk or very close to the root system, implies that there might be decay within the tree. Other indications are hollow spots in trunks or limbs, decaying cavities or a large amount of dead branches, especially on one side of a tree. Decay will weaken the integrity of the wood causing failure in wind, ice or snow conditions.

Deadwood: Dead wood is brittle and will not bend in winds, or when covered with ice or snow. It should be removed before it falls. Branches that are already broken and hanging at awkward angles are also very dangerous and should be removed. Any large and jagged wounds that are left behind from broken branches are very hard for a tree to heal. Correctly pruning these breaks is very important for the over all health of your tree.

Cracked limbs or trunks: Look for cracks on limbs of your trees. When any strong winds or heavy ice or snow occurs, these limbs will be the first to fall or break. Continue to monitor your trees through out the winter for dead or damaged limbs, especially those close to your home or any walkway. Cracks need to be evaluated very carefully. They may or may not indicate substantial amounts of internal wood decay. Many times if the crack is not harboring decay, a simple cable or two in the branches can solve the problem.

Leaning trees: Not all leaning trees are hazardous. Watch your trees for recent changes. Look for cut or damaged roots around a leaning tree. Also check to see if the soil has been raised or disturbed by roots rising up on the opposite side of the lean. If the lean is a recent change, or if the lean has become more pronounced, and new growth is absent, the potential of falling could be high.

Hazardous structure: Look for one or more limbs that might be growing from a deep “V” crotch in your trees. These are often called “forks” in our industry. Be especially vigilant to see if there is a cracking in the bark within that “V” and call for an inspection immediately if you have any questions.

Roots: In the fall as deciduous plants start loosing their foliage and the top growth of all plants has slowed, the roots are still very active. Roots put on a majority of growth in the fall. They also continue to take in nutrients from the soil to strengthen the plant. Any excess nutrients are stored and become immediately available when needed for new growth in spring. True Care’s comprehensive, Fertilizer formula includes a lower controlled release Nitrogen, and Potassium and a small amount Phosphorus, combined with micro nutrients such as calcium, iron, magnesium, manganese, boron, copper, and zinc and of course Mycorrhizae. Our special formula is made to order for our Northwest soils, and injected into the first 6-12 inches of soil, where feeder roots live.

Soil moisture: All plants get through harsh winter weather better with moist roots than with dry ones. Particularly watch plants placed under eves, etc. that rarely get winter moisture, and hand water moderately as needed.

If you have questions about the health and safety of your trees and shrubs, you should always consult an arborist. To the untrained eye, certain problems might seem much bigger or smaller than they really are. The Certified Arborist’s at True Care Inc. can clearly identify problems and risks and propose solutions to save your valuable property. Call us at: 503-638-5388 for a free inspection.

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More usefull information from OSU:

CORVALLIS, Ore. – Silken caterpillar nests that look like cobwebs have begun to appear in deciduous trees. The gauzy-looking tents at the end of tree branches are most likely fall webworm caterpillars working as a group to make a home.

These caterpillars are the larvae of a native species of tiger moth known to entomologists as Hyphantria cunea. They are considered to be a pest by many people, but are primarily a cosmetic nuisance, according to Oregon State University entomologists Jeff Miller and Robin Rosetta.

The caterpillars feed on more than 85 species of deciduous trees and shrubs in the United States and are commonly seen in black walnut trees, willows, fruit trees and cottonwoods in Oregon.

Fall webworms can be distinguished from tent caterpillars by how they enclose themselves in their web along with their food, the end of a leafy tree branch, explained Rosetta. Tent caterpillars are found outside their much smaller web, she said.

Webworm caterpillars, related to wooly bear caterpillars, are black with yellow to golden-orange bumps under a cloak of long tufted white hairs. They grow to about 1.5 inches long, and then overwinter as pupae in a brown cocoon in protected places, such as in bark crevices or on the ground in litter or duff.

The adult, a large silky white tiger moth with black spots on its underside, flies in mid-summer. After mating, the female moth will lay hundreds of yellow or white eggs on the undersides of leaves.

They rarely cause significant damage, but are considered unsightly, Rosetta said. If fall webworm tents become bothersome, Miller advises that the best home remedy is to prune off the infested branches. “Then make sure to destroy or remove the cut, tent-laden branches from the area, to avoid spreading the caterpillars elsewhere,” he said. Sometimes burning is a practical way to get rid of infested branches, but it is not always safe, or allowed in all areas.

If pruning branches seems too drastic try physically removing the tents, Rosetta said. But if you merely squirt the tents with a jet of water or tear the tents the webworms can spread to other branches to create new tents there.

She suggests submerging the plucked tents and worms in soapy water. “And remember to pay attention after removing tents to make sure more new tents are not being made by recently dispersed webworms,” she said.

Next year, be alert for new webworm tents. A new infestation might occur next year, regardless of your actions this year.

For more information:
• Miller is the author of, “Caterpillars of the Pacific Northwest Forests and Woodlands,” available online.
• To learn more about the fall webworm, and to see pictures of these critters in action and their webs, visit Rosetta’s OSU Pacific Northwest Nursery IPM website.
• More caterpillar photos are available on the USGS’ Northern Prairie Wildlife Research Center website.
Author: Judy Scott
Source: Jeff Miller, Robin Rosetta

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Cut worm: of the Moth family, Noctuidae

Cutworms are the highly destructive pests that suddenly cut down your plants as they feed on stems, foliage, buds and shoots. These are the larvae if several night flying moths, that as adults do not cause damage. However, the larvae (caterpillars) are “general” feeders and will attack a wide range of plants, from young vegetables and flower starts, to turf grass.

Cutworms have many different species and types. These are the larvae of several types of night flying moths, which as adults cause no damage. As larvae or caterpillars, there is damage. Surface cutworms “cut” down plants down near the surface of the soil. Climbing cutworms can climb the stems of many garden plants from small annuals to tall trees. They eat leaves, buds and fruit. Subterranean cutworms remain in the dirt, feeding on the roots. Cutworm colors range from black to brown, usually with a smooth outer skin. Cutworms can be spotted, striped, or variegated, and can grow as large at 2 inches long. Depending on the species, there can be as many as three generations a year.

Regularly check your garden to monitor for cutworms during in the late afternoon and evenings, when the worms are active, or look early in the morning when damage is fresh. Look for plants lying on their sides that have been chewed at the soil surface or plants that are obviously wilting or that are completely missing. If plants are missing or damaged, gently dig or disturb the soil within a foot of the damage, to unearth the culprits.

Control of cutworms is more effective when the larvae are small. For some vegetable crops you may need to monitor, and physically remove cutworms until harvest. Try placing aluminum foil or cardboard collars around the base of young plants to create a barrier for the worms. Till your soil in the spring to remove any left over plant materiel that eggs may have been laid in. And again, till the soil in the fall, to remove expose any over wintering larvae or pupae. Avoid using cover crops to discourage egg laying.

The use of insecticides in home gardens vegetable gardens is usually not recommended, but you can protect annual and perennial flowers and turf grass with a residual insecticide. True Care Inc. takes care of all your garden pests with years of experience and safe products. Give us a call at 503-678-5388 for a free diagnosis and a free estimate on all your garden pest and fertilizing needs.

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Powdery mildew causes loss to ornamental and food crops probably more than any other fungal disease. This disease does not kill out right, but interferes with photosynthesis, and causes malformation and discoloration of leaves and fruit, and in some cases, keeps flowers and fruit from growing at all.

The signs of powdery mildew are most often found on the uppper side of leaves as spots or patches of white or grayish, powdery substance. These same signs can also be found on new shoots and buds. The fungus does not grow in a leaf or plant material, but rather across the surface. As the season progresses, the patches will turn color from a yellow or brown to a black.

There are several types of powdery mildew fungi that produce the same symptoms on all plants. Powdery mildew fungi are all “host specific”. In other words, they cannot survive without the proper host plant. For example; the powdery mildew that causes infection on grapes will not show up on lilac or pumpkins. Contrary to popular myth, humidity rather than actual water on the leaves is the culprit behind most Powdery mildew infections. This disease can develop under relatively dry conditions as long as the relative humidity is high. In fact, a large amount of water falling on the leaves of plants, like rain or sprinklers can kill the spores by making them burst on contact.

Methods to control Powdery mildew include avoiding late summer applications of high nigtrogen fertilizer, pruning and spacing to increase air circlulation, and planting cultivars that are mildew resistant. Remove and destroy all infected plant material, especially in your fall clean up. Do not compost these cuttings, as temperatures in compost piles are often not hot enough to kill the fungus. Avoid over-head watering to reduce the relative humidity in your landscape. And do not plant susceptable plants in low, or shady locations.

There are a variety of fungicide controls that are effective against Powdery Mildew. As with most disease in plants, the controls need to be started proctectively,in advance of any signs of the disease. Pay attention to resistance management guidelines on each label, and rotate fungicides repeatedly through out the season to further avoid resistance.

At True Care Inc. Tree service our Plant Health Care department is well versed in caring for your Powdery mildew susceptable plants. Give us a call today for an estimate on providing exceptional care to your landscape. 503-678-5388

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More from our friends at Oregon State University:

CORVALLIS, Ore. – Yellow jackets buzzing around pop cans, hamburgers and fruit salad can ruin barbecues. And, because their sting can be life-threatening, it might be necessary to destroy nests found near human activity.

It’s easier to deal with these aggressive wasps if you know how they live, said Ross Penhallegon, horticulturist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. Yellow jackets are heavy-bodied, with black and yellow or white markings and live in gray, papery nests, which are mainly located below ground but some are suspended above, he said.

“Not to be mistaken as honeybees that gather pollen and flower nectar, yellow jackets are mostly meat eaters and are particularly fond of rotting fruit,” Penhallegon said. “Yellow jackets are more likely than bees to sting without provocation, their sting is more painful and normally no stinger remains in the skin. A single yellow jacket may sting more than once.”

“Worker” yellow jackets hunt for insects or feed on carrion or rotting fruit. They carry food back to the nest to feed their nest-mates. If you accidentally contact a nest entrance, you’re likely to get stung. Workers vigorously defend the nest and queen.

A queen is the epicenter of each nest and her sole responsibility is to lay eggs. She begins a nest in the spring by laying a few eggs and raising the adults. Workers provision, expand and defend the nest.

As spring and summer pass, the nest grows and new workers assume their role. By the end of summer, nests may contain hundreds or thousands of workers. By August or September, they are at their most troublesome and dangerous.

By fall, yellow jacket nests have produced a crop of new queens and males. By the first frost, most workers and queens leave the nest to find a protected spot to spend the winter. They re-emerge in spring to begin the cycle again. Only new queens survive the winter, however, and they almost never reuse the previous year’s nest.

To destroy a yellow jacket nest, treat the nest at night, when the workers are inside and relatively calm. Use an aerosol that propels a stream of insecticide up to 20 feet so that you can stand at a safe distance and treat directly into the nest opening.

“Don’t pour petroleum products into ground nests,” Penhallegon said. “This is dangerous, environmentally harmful and illegal. Use products specifically made for yellow jacket control only. Be sure to read and follow the pesticide product label. Remember, the label is the law.”

Non-toxic yellow jacket traps are available in yard and garden stores. The most effective traps use a synthetic attractant to lure worker yellow jackets into a trap. Fruit juice or meat can be used as attractants as well. Traps may provide temporary relief by drawing workers away from people, but they are not effective for area-wide nest control.

Some people are allergic to the venom of yellow jackets and stings can be deadly. Persons particularly sensitive to yellow jacket venom should be extra cautious in late summer and early fall, when the insects are most numerous. Enlist the help of someone not as sensitive, if you need to spray a nest.

Other wasps are mud daubers and paper wasps. Mud daubers collect bits of wet soil to take back to their nests, usually a mud tube. Paper wasps build small, open nests that are suspended vertically from a horizontal surface, such as under an eave, bush or tree branch. Their long legs and thin “waists” distinguish paper wasps. Both mud daubers and paper wasps are less aggressive and normally will not sting or swarm when away from their nest.

Author: Judy Scott
Source: Ross Penhallegon
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Cooley spruce gall adelgids
Adelges cooleyi

Cooley spruce galls are found on the tips of spruce tree branches. These galls are produced by Insects called Cooley spruce gall adelgids (woolly aphids). This activity causes what looks like a brown or pinkish seed cone on the end of a spruce branch. But it never drops off. These can be unattractive on blue spruce trees. However, these galls do little or no harm to the trees infected. Old galls are usually covered by new growth the following spring and become camouflaged with in a year or two. However, if heavy infestations happen season after season, this pest can disfigure the aesthitic shape of a spruce, after a few years.

Cooley spruce gall adelgids require two hosts to complete their life cycle: Spruce and Doulas Fir. Eggs hatch in the spring and the young migrate to the end of the branch where the new growth is forming and actually burrow in. They grow and feed inside the tip of the branch, forming the “gall”. By midsummer, the galls dry out, the chambers open and winged forms of the Insects emerge. The empty galls continue to dry out through the summer, becoming very noticeable. Meanwhile, the winged adelgids leave the spruce tree and migrate to Douglas-fir trees. On Douglas fir, these adelgids, or Wooly aphids, only feed on the needles. Douglas Firs will appear speckeled with tiny cotton-like dots. Cooley spruce galls do not create “galls” in Douglas fir, but the feeding can cause yellow spots on the needles. Eggs are also laid on Douglas fir and many generations may occur. In the summer, some of the woolly aphids develop wings and fly to find a spruce.

Controling Cooley spruce gall is not needed to protect tree health. Removing the old galls will not have any affect on future infestations as the insects have left the tree by the time galls turn brown and become conspicuous. Removal of the galls is time consuming, but will help maintain the aesthitic qualities of the tree. And, once the galls begin to form, insecticides are ineffective because the Insects are protected within the galls. Soil injections of systemic insecticides can reduce Cooley spruce gall adelgids – to a point. These treatments will not kill the insects until after the galls are formed. Prior to bud break in the early, early spring a dormant oil spray can be used to try to suffocate a few of the over-wintering adult adelgids, BUT horticultural oils will cause the needles to turn from a blue to a green for three months or longer. After prolonged oil treatments, some trees stay green, instead of blue. Cooley spruce galls are woolly aphids. The “wool” is actually a waxy covering, making it hard for insecticides to penetrate and kill, so normal topical insecticides are not effective.

Infestations of this insect are highly cyclical, with their numbers can change greatly from year to year, and tree to tree. Be sure to keep your Blue Spruce tree as healthy as possible to help it fight off any infestations.

Call True Care Inc. Tree Service for all pruning, fertilizing, Insect and disease concerns.
503-678-5388

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More from the smart people at OSU:

CORVALLIS, Ore. – Like overgrown hair, untrimmed hedges may go unnoticed to everyone but the owner. A spring trim will get your hedge back in shape and stimulate new growth.

The best time to trim is after the flush of spring growth – usually late April through early June – depending on your growing season and the vigor of the hedge materials, according to Ross Penhallegon, horticulturist with the Oregon State University Extension Service.

“Spring trimming after the growth spurt will help the hedge hold its desired shape longer than pruning before the active growth period,” Penhallegon said.

Trimming also will help make the individual shrubs blend together. Make the bottom wider than the top so that light can reach all the leaves. On older, slower-growing bushes, modify the shape gradually over several years. Some older shrubs may need trimming only about one half inch per year.

Heaths and heathers will need shearing right after they finish blooming, as well. Cut just below the point where the blooms formed. Annual post-bloom trimming will stimulate new growth in the center of small shrubs and keep them compact. Apply a complete fertilizer to keep heathers and heaths healthy and robust.

Later in the spring, apply a nitrogen fertilizer to young hedges. For mature hedges, apply a complete fertilizer, such as a 16-16-16 combination, or a good composted manure once a year.

As June approaches, concentrations of spider mites may appear in hedge foliage. If the leaves develop a gray cast and look dusty, it’s likely that spider mites are present.

To verify that you do have spider mites and not just mildew or dust on your shrub, hold a piece of paper under a branch of the infested shrub. Shake the branch. Tiny brownish-to-reddish specks will fall on the paper. Examine them with a magnifying glass or hand lens. If the spots begin to move, odds are they are mites, Penhallegon said.

Hose the hedge with water in the early morning to help control the spider mites, or apply an insecticidal soap.

Author: Judy Scott
Source: Ross Penhallegon

Call True Care Inc. for all your pruning, fertilizing and insect reduction needs!
503-678-5388
.

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Fron our friends at Oregon State University:

CORVALLIS, Ore. – Tilling the garden helps to mix organic matter into garden soil and control weeds that compete for moisture and nutrients. But frequent tilling may do more harm than good, according to the Oregon State University Extension publication, “Growing Your Own.”
Too much tilling can destroy the structure of soil and eventually may leave you with a garden that is better suited to making bricks than growing vegetables.
Till garden soil only when it will accomplish a useful purpose, such as turning under organic matter, controlling weeds, breaking crusted soil or loosening a small area for planting seeds.
Never till soil when it is wet. Doing so will leave you with cloddy, compacted soil. To test soil moisture, take a handful of soil and squeeze it. If it stays in a mud ball, it’s too wet to till. If it is powdery and clumped, it is too dry. If it crumbles freely, it is just right.
More information on improving garden soils is in the practical guide to gardening for first-time gardeners, available at OSU Extension county offices or online at “Growing Your Own.”
Author: Judy Scott
Source: Gail Langellotto

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